Spring Rates Calculator
Using Suspension Frequency to Help Determine Ideal Spring Rates for your car.
In the right margin of this blog I have posted a spring rate calculator.
It looks like a small excel spreadsheet and it will help you determine what
spring rates will work best for your application. Most consumers who are upgrading their suspension
don’t think about spring rates they choose a coilover kit or brand of
springs and bolt them on. They may be basing their decision on opinions
or reviews they read online and they may not be getting the best setup for
their application. When I say most consumers, a large majority of consumers are modding their cars for cosmetic reasons and aren’t
actually intending to participate in any motor sports. So for them, the
spring rate is inconsequential because they are looking for either a good brand
they can brag about or something that is inexpensive.
If, on the other hand, you are interested
in actually participating in some sort of motor sport like AutoX, track days,
or racing, then a properly tuned suspension will give you an advantage over
your competitors who may have only bought a recommended coilover package.
This isn’t necessarily a bad way to go since there are a lot of good
coilover kits out there that are tuned for the car and application. But
understanding spring rates and how they can be used to custom tune your
suspension to very specific tracks or your own driving style can give you an
edge on the competition. At the very least it will give you a better
understanding of how the suspension works.
You don’t need coilovers to adjust
spring rates, but one advantage of coilovers is that the springs have a
standard diameter and you will be able to find a variety of spring rates and
lengths online. Usually the rates will be available in 50lb increments. This
gives you much better suspension tuning options than an aftermarket spring kit
that is designed to fit the stock spring locations. These kits are
cheaper since you don’t need to upgrade to coilovers but there won’t
be a variety of spring rates available to choose from.
The standard spring rate measurement I will
be using is lbs per inch which represents the amount of force in pounds it
takes to compress a spring one inch. For example a 400lb spring will
compress one inch when 400lbs of force is applied. The same spring will
compress two inches when 800lbs are applied and four inches when 1600lbs are
applied. To give you some perspective a Ford Focus might have 80-150lb
springs, a mildly built Miata might have 300lb springs and a full track car may
have 600-2000lb springs. Obviously the higher the spring rate the harder
the ride. Bigger cars will also have stiffer springs since the springs will
have to carry the weight of a heavier vehicle.
It seems obvious to many why stiffer springs
would be more desirable, but it may not be obvious to everyone. A brief
explanation is that a stiffer spring maintains to road contact, the car won’t
lean as much in a turn, and it won’t bow as much under heavy
braking. The compromise is that the ride quality will be much harsher and
that means less comfortable for daily driving. This will be covered in more detail in future articles.
Suspension
frequency (SF) describes the natural frequency of the spring in relation to
wheel motion and can be used to estimate the appropriate spring rate for
various applications. The calculation isn’t particularly difficult
but will require either finding data or taking measurements of the car. You
can also use this to evaluate spring rates of various coilover kits and stock
spring packages. Most passenger cars will have a rate of approximately 1
Hz. A fairly aggressive suspension setup will be around 2.0 Hz and a
track dedicated car will have a frequency of around 3.0 Hz or more. So you can
use this information to figure out where on this spectrum of suspension
frequencies will fit your application. If you drive your car to the track
or AutoX event you might want to try a SF a little over 2.0. It is
important to note that you want your rear SF to be slightly higher than your
front otherwise the car might start to porpoise; rock forward and backward.
Also keep in mind that you will need to upgrade your dampers (aka shocks) to
handle springs that are stiffer if you haven’t done so already, especially if you choose a very aggressive spring rate.
The spring rate calculator on the right is fairly simple to use. Figure out what suspension frequency you want, update the vehicle data for your car in the white cells and the ideal spring rate will update in the yellow. Everything
in gray should be left alone and the calculated spring rates will be
yellow. For now none of the cells are protected so you could go in and
modify any of them but none of the changes will be permanent. If you make
any mistakes, refresh the page and it will reset the calculator. The
spring rates are calculated for individual corner of the car but since the left
and right side should be essentially the same the calculator will only
calculate front and rear. If you want some more background information check
out the Eibach website. Please note for a live axle or solid
beam axle this calculator will not work.
User Inputs:
Race
Weight - This is the weight of the car with fully suited
driver, and fuel. If the car is stock, take the curb weight, add your own
weight when fully suited, and a little extra for incidentals.
Weight
Distribution Front - percent of the total weight of the car
in the front. You can use stock data to get you close.
Unsprung
weight - this is the weight not supported by the springs, so
this is the weight of the wheels, tires, hubs, brake caliper, half the control
arm, etc. You can estimate this weight and it will probably be somewhere
between 80-100lbs per corner. Keep in mind that particularly large wheels
will be significantly heavier and may push your unsprung weight well over
100lbs per corner. Since some cars have staggered wheels the unsprung weight from front to rear may be very different.
Spring
Angle - if you have a McPherson Strut, you can estimate the
angle at 5-10 degrees. Otherwise you need to determine what angle from
vertical the spring/coilover/strut is mounted in the car.
D1
& D2 - D1 is the distance from the spring mount on the
control arm to the control arm pivot point. D2 is the distance from the ball
joint to the control arm pivot point. The units aren't important as long
as they are the same (mm, inches, feet, furlongs or whatever). If you have a
McPherson strut, then leave these numbers alone since 98/100 is the approximate
ratio. You will see you need to do this for the front and rear. If
you are a Mustang owner and have a live axle, just do it for the front since
this is not setup for solid axle setups.
Everything
in gray should be left alone since it is either calculated for you based on the
info you entered in the white cells or cell descriptors but I will explain what
the various measurements are.
MR
- Motion Ratio, this is the ratio of the motion of the wheel to the motion of
the spring. This is calculated by taking D1 and dividing it by D2.
That is why the units of measure aren’t important, since we are using
them to calculate a ratio.
ACF
(Angle Correction Factor) - This is needed to accurately calculate the how
much the spring compresses in relation to the wheel motion.
Front
and rear Sprung Weight - In this formula, this is calculated
based on the weight distribution and unsprung weight. In this current
configuration, the unsprung weight is considered to be the same for front and
rear wheels. I will update it shortly so that you can put unique values
for the front or the rear.
Spring
Rates - These are the required spring rates to achieve the
desired suspension frequency. You probably won’t be able to get a
212.3356 # spring, so you will have to decide if you want to with a 200# of
250# spring. When deciding which way to go, remember that you want the
rear SF to be slightly higher than the front, so look at both the front and
rear SF before deciding.
If you
have any questions please feel free to leave a comment, and feedback would be appreciated.
Hello
ReplyDeleteAnd I am going to replace my springs. I have ordered some good ones from Sterling company - http://www.sterling-springs.co.uk. I can't wait to put them in. I guess, they will be very good
ReplyDelete